Tuesday 27 November 2012
New chain shortened, reweighed, & fitted
Following the initial trouble-free test rides, the borrowed 110 link chain has been returned, and a new one has now been shortened from 114 links to 110, reducing its weight from 251.5g to 242.5g (including the 2.5g Powerlock link), and fitted. No final decision yet on whether or not to go all the way to 108 links.
Wednesday 21 November 2012
Carbon fibre seatpost plus titanium headset cap & bolt delivered & weighed
The Hylix carbon fibre seatpost weighs in at a favourable 163.3g (claimed was 160g) for its full 400mm nominal length (it's actually just over 390mm, with 357mm of 27.2mm diameter post, of which 244mm is above the "0" insertion marker). However, the stand-in seatpost currently fitted has 20mm of setback, and I've already repositioned the saddle almost as far back as it will go, which doesn't bode well for the Hylix post, which has no setback. Maybe the stand-in post is going to stay put, and the Hylix is going to pass through eBay for a second time - a few more rides will tell. But the stand-in post, even though it's already been shortened, is heavier - I'm reserving final judgement on its potential permanence.
The J&L titanium headset cap and its titanium bolt weigh 11.1g (claimed was 11.0g). Unlike the current plastic M:Part cap, which has a rounded underside, the titanium cap has a flat underside with a slightly raised circular locating ridge. The ridge is slightly smaller in diameter than the internal diameter of the steerer tube, and almost shallow enough for the cap to fit perfectly without needing the stack spacer that's currently sitting under the stem. If I get the height of the ridge reduced slightly, I'll be able to save a total of 6.8g by discarding the spacer and fitting the titanium cap and bolt in place of the M:Part equivalents, and I'll have the absolute maximum surface area contact between the stem and the steerer.
Before:
- M:Part cap = 8.6g
- M:Part bolt + washer = 8.3g
- stack spacer = 1.0g
- total = 17.9g
After:
- titanium cap = 6.3g
- titanium bolt = 4.8g
- no spacer = 0.0g
- total = 11.1g
Total weight saving = 6.8g (!)
And the free socks? As expected, way too small! Gave them away without even bothering to weigh them... ;-)
The J&L titanium headset cap and its titanium bolt weigh 11.1g (claimed was 11.0g). Unlike the current plastic M:Part cap, which has a rounded underside, the titanium cap has a flat underside with a slightly raised circular locating ridge. The ridge is slightly smaller in diameter than the internal diameter of the steerer tube, and almost shallow enough for the cap to fit perfectly without needing the stack spacer that's currently sitting under the stem. If I get the height of the ridge reduced slightly, I'll be able to save a total of 6.8g by discarding the spacer and fitting the titanium cap and bolt in place of the M:Part equivalents, and I'll have the absolute maximum surface area contact between the stem and the steerer.
Before:
- M:Part cap = 8.6g
- M:Part bolt + washer = 8.3g
- stack spacer = 1.0g
- total = 17.9g
After:
- titanium cap = 6.3g
- titanium bolt = 4.8g
- no spacer = 0.0g
- total = 11.1g
Total weight saving = 6.8g (!)
And the free socks? As expected, way too small! Gave them away without even bothering to weigh them... ;-)
Saturday 17 November 2012
ESI grips ordered
Still undecided on colour, so I've ordered a black pair as they'll have multiple alternative uses if I eventually decide I really must have another colour for Ti10x.
Best price I could find was from a USA seller on eBay. I went for the very slightly more expensive ($1.30) option, which includes an ESI-branded Specialized water bottle:
- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260946381950
- http://www.esigrips.com/GripsInABottle.htm
- 60g/pair (claimed)
- £15.27 (including £3.25 delivery)
eBay/Paypal applied their usual exchange rate rip-off - advertised price is $18.49, which eBay states is "approximately £11.67", and postage is $5.00, which eBay states is "approximately £3.16".
Now "approximately £11.67" + "approximately £3.16" is approximately £14.83 - right? Wrong. According to Paypal, it's (exactly) £15.27 - are we not supposed to notice?
Best price I could find was from a USA seller on eBay. I went for the very slightly more expensive ($1.30) option, which includes an ESI-branded Specialized water bottle:
- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260946381950
- http://www.esigrips.com/GripsInABottle.htm
- 60g/pair (claimed)
- £15.27 (including £3.25 delivery)
eBay/Paypal applied their usual exchange rate rip-off - advertised price is $18.49, which eBay states is "approximately £11.67", and postage is $5.00, which eBay states is "approximately £3.16".
Now "approximately £11.67" + "approximately £3.16" is approximately £14.83 - right? Wrong. According to Paypal, it's (exactly) £15.27 - are we not supposed to notice?
Sunday 11 November 2012
First ride
Today I removed the bottom bracket bearings, derailleur, back brake, seatpost clamp, and bottle cages (basically everything in contact with the titanium frame), and applied Park Tools ASC-1 anti-seize compound before refitting them. I also applied Finish Line Fiber Grip to the fork steerer tube before properly cinching the stem.
Finally, I tidied up a few loose ends - I cut the inner brake and shifter cables to length and crimped their end caps in place, switched the orientation of the Cateye computer mount so I could move it from the handlebar to the stem, and fitted a stand-in seatpost and my Selle SMP Plus saddle.
And with that, we were all set. It wasn't a long ride (time was limited) but it was a good one!
In some ways it wasn't very interesting - no huge surprises, and nothing fell off! The only adjustments needed once I got going were to the saddle, moving it almost as far back as it can go and raising the nose slightly.
What was interesting was that the overriding first impression was how easy it is to accelerate and to push big gears. I know that really that directly equates to speed, but if I had to sum up in one word how it felt, it would be "effortless", not "fast" - probably because I was in no hurry.
No drivetrain problems, the relatively wide ratios felt fine, and shifting was flawless and without hesitation, even from 9th to 10th under load. Top feels plenty high enough, and I think bottom should be adequate.
The only thing needing urgent attention is the handlebar grips - I don't think I'd get very far on the temporary grips, I need to get those ESI grips ordered ASAP.
Finally, I tidied up a few loose ends - I cut the inner brake and shifter cables to length and crimped their end caps in place, switched the orientation of the Cateye computer mount so I could move it from the handlebar to the stem, and fitted a stand-in seatpost and my Selle SMP Plus saddle.
And with that, we were all set. It wasn't a long ride (time was limited) but it was a good one!
In some ways it wasn't very interesting - no huge surprises, and nothing fell off! The only adjustments needed once I got going were to the saddle, moving it almost as far back as it can go and raising the nose slightly.
What was interesting was that the overriding first impression was how easy it is to accelerate and to push big gears. I know that really that directly equates to speed, but if I had to sum up in one word how it felt, it would be "effortless", not "fast" - probably because I was in no hurry.
No drivetrain problems, the relatively wide ratios felt fine, and shifting was flawless and without hesitation, even from 9th to 10th under load. Top feels plenty high enough, and I think bottom should be adequate.
The only thing needing urgent attention is the handlebar grips - I don't think I'd get very far on the temporary grips, I need to get those ESI grips ordered ASAP.
Saturday 10 November 2012
Fitting the Cateye V2/V3 speed & cadence sensor backwards
Why? Because not only is the gap between the crank and the chainstay wider than the maximum reach of the cadence sensor arm (when it's mounted conventionally), but also because the (temporary) M590 cranks have hollow backs which would mean the cadence sensor magnet couldn't be ziptied into place without additional material to raise the magnet out of the recess.
How? I fitted the sensor unit under the chainstay, instead of above it, so that the cadence sensor arm extends back towards the rear wheel, instead of forwards towards the bottom bracket (I couldn't fit it above the chainstay and turn it around, because the speed sensor only tilts in one direction).
The cadence magnet attached itself to the inner end of the pedal spindle, but I was pretty sure magnetism alone wouldn't be enough to keep it there permanently. It couldn't be secured with a ziptie, because of course the pedal spindle would be in the way on the outboard side of the crank, so I popped the magnet out of its plastic holder, and used a short length of inner tube (with a small hole cut in it for the pedal spindle) instead.
How? I fitted the sensor unit under the chainstay, instead of above it, so that the cadence sensor arm extends back towards the rear wheel, instead of forwards towards the bottom bracket (I couldn't fit it above the chainstay and turn it around, because the speed sensor only tilts in one direction).
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| The sensor unit mounted backwards under the chainstay, showing the alignment of the speed sensor with the speed magnet on the wheel spoke, and of the cadence sensor arm with the eventual position of the cadence magnet (concentric with the hole in the crank arm). |
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| The cadence magnet, looking lost in the depths of the hollow rear side of the crank arm. |
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| L to R: about 25mm of inner tube, with a slightly elongated hole offset a little towards one end; pedal; cadence sensor magnet; and the plastic holder and ziptie that would normally secure the magnet. |
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| The inner tube sleeve in position on the pedal spindle, ready to be fitted to the crank arm. |
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| Pedal fitted, with magnet attaching itself to the inboard end of the spindle. |
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| The inner tube sleeve pulled into position to secure the magnet. |
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| Outboard view of the pedal spindle and inner tube sleeve in place. |
Friday 9 November 2012
Test build almost complete
The first rough build is nearing completion - a test ride with a stand-in seatpost is imminent.
The brake cable problem has been resolved with a pair of alternative ferrules from MK Cycles, and I've temporarily fitted a couple of flimsy (7g each!) foam handlebar grips.
I've even installed a Cateye V2/V3 computer mounting kit, which is a story in itself - I ended up fitting the speed/cadence sensor upside down and back-to-front, and stuck the cadence magnet on the end of the pedal spindle - maybe I'll take some more photos and write that up tomorrow.
The M590 crankset is still fitted, as I haven't even begun the XTR M960 crankset modifications yet.
Having discussed the chain length issue with Mr Wotler et al, I've decided to leave the borrowed 110 link chain on for the first ride. If all is well, I'll then shorten a new chain to 110 and probably run that for a while, and reserve judgement on possibly going to 108 at a later date.
The next step, after a few test rides, will be to tear it down again and tackle the aesthetics.
The brake cable problem has been resolved with a pair of alternative ferrules from MK Cycles, and I've temporarily fitted a couple of flimsy (7g each!) foam handlebar grips.
I've even installed a Cateye V2/V3 computer mounting kit, which is a story in itself - I ended up fitting the speed/cadence sensor upside down and back-to-front, and stuck the cadence magnet on the end of the pedal spindle - maybe I'll take some more photos and write that up tomorrow.
The M590 crankset is still fitted, as I haven't even begun the XTR M960 crankset modifications yet.
Having discussed the chain length issue with Mr Wotler et al, I've decided to leave the borrowed 110 link chain on for the first ride. If all is well, I'll then shorten a new chain to 110 and probably run that for a while, and reserve judgement on possibly going to 108 at a later date.
The next step, after a few test rides, will be to tear it down again and tackle the aesthetics.
Thursday 8 November 2012
Cables fitted, derailleur & brakes set up
I haven't previously done any bicycle cabling from scratch, but this first attempt has gone almost without a hitch.
The shifter cable came from two sources - the inner came with the shifter, the outer from MK Cycles, a local bike shop. I didn't attempt to cut the outer myself, instead I bought two separate lengths, each slightly longer than I would need (for shifter to downtube adjuster barrel, and chainstay cable stop to derailleur) from the bike shop, offered them up to the bike, marked them for cutting, and then returned them to the shop to be trimmed with their (rather expensive looking) special cutter.
Setting up the derailleur was straight forward, it's working perfectly, and is all set to be fine-tuned on a test ride to get it absolutely spot-on under load.
The brake cables came with the Tiagra levers, which I chose because they are highest group Shimano flat bar levers, and can be used with caliper brakes (they can be set up either for V-brakes, or for caliper or cantilever or roller brakes) and the diagonal cutters on my pliers proved up to the job of neatly pruning them to length.
There was a problem however with the supplied ferrules - they fit perfectly into the adjuster barrels on the levers, and into the cable stops on the frame, but their external diameter is very slightly larger than the internal diameter of the adjuster barrels on the Tiagra calipers. Not sure what's gone wrong there - I assumed that the cables Shimano supplied with BL-4600 Tiagra levers would be compatible with BR-4600 Tiagra calipers! So for now I've left those two ferrules out, and I'll get an opinion (and, I suspect, a couple of different ferrules) from the bike shop next time I'm passing.
No problems adjusting the brakes. I still need to cut the inner cables to length, resolve the ferrule problem, get a shorter mounting bolt for the rear caliper, and I should probably replace the used brake shoes with something that will be as kind as possible to my Ultegra rims, but none of those things is stopping the bike from being ridden.
The shifter cable came from two sources - the inner came with the shifter, the outer from MK Cycles, a local bike shop. I didn't attempt to cut the outer myself, instead I bought two separate lengths, each slightly longer than I would need (for shifter to downtube adjuster barrel, and chainstay cable stop to derailleur) from the bike shop, offered them up to the bike, marked them for cutting, and then returned them to the shop to be trimmed with their (rather expensive looking) special cutter.
Setting up the derailleur was straight forward, it's working perfectly, and is all set to be fine-tuned on a test ride to get it absolutely spot-on under load.
The brake cables came with the Tiagra levers, which I chose because they are highest group Shimano flat bar levers, and can be used with caliper brakes (they can be set up either for V-brakes, or for caliper or cantilever or roller brakes) and the diagonal cutters on my pliers proved up to the job of neatly pruning them to length.
There was a problem however with the supplied ferrules - they fit perfectly into the adjuster barrels on the levers, and into the cable stops on the frame, but their external diameter is very slightly larger than the internal diameter of the adjuster barrels on the Tiagra calipers. Not sure what's gone wrong there - I assumed that the cables Shimano supplied with BL-4600 Tiagra levers would be compatible with BR-4600 Tiagra calipers! So for now I've left those two ferrules out, and I'll get an opinion (and, I suspect, a couple of different ferrules) from the bike shop next time I'm passing.
No problems adjusting the brakes. I still need to cut the inner cables to length, resolve the ferrule problem, get a shorter mounting bolt for the rear caliper, and I should probably replace the used brake shoes with something that will be as kind as possible to my Ultegra rims, but none of those things is stopping the bike from being ridden.
Wednesday 7 November 2012
Sealant-free tubeless tyres - initial pressure check
After 24 hours, pressure is down about 3-4psi. This includes however much is lost as a result of applying the pressure gauge (which probably isn't insignificant, given the low volumes and high pressures involved).
Tuesday 6 November 2012
Hutchinson Fusion 3 tubeless tyres fitted
This is the first time I've fitted tubeless bicycle road tyres, and I wasn't quite sure what to expect. My previous experience with bicycle tyres in general (reasonable), tubeless MTB tyres (limited), and tubeless motorcycle and car tyres (considerable is probably an understatement) suggested that fitting these would be a doddle. On the other hand, most reports I've read online, both by Joe Public and supposed press professionals, generally indicated that superhuman strength, heavy duty tyre levers, and a compressor of industrial proportions would be needed.
I popped the tyres in the airing cupboard for half an hour first (warm tyres are that bit more flexible and stretchy) then applied diluted liquid soap to the beads with my finger. The first side went on by hand in a flash, followed by most of the second side. I did then resort to a second pair of hands to help me get to within about nine inches of bead remaining, but could proceed no further with my bare hands. Three gentle applications of a single normal plastic bicycle tyre lever then effortlessly popped the last section into place.
A simple track pump was then applied. The first (front) tyre took about 30 seconds with my glamorous assistant pumping and me gently manipulating to get a complete seal, and even less time to get from there to 100psi - per the sidewall, which states "REC. PRESSURE 7.0 BAR (100 PSI) MAX. PRESSURE 8.7 BAR (125 PSI)". The second (rear) tyre went straight up, right from the first stroke on the track pump, without needing any manipulating whatsoever.
Momentarily over-inflating a tyre (within reason) can help to get the best possible mating of beads and rim, but these appear to have gone on very neatly without needing any special persuasion, and the beads and the tread look perfectly concentric when the wheel is spun.
No sealant used - let's see what pressure they are at in 24 hours time.
I popped the tyres in the airing cupboard for half an hour first (warm tyres are that bit more flexible and stretchy) then applied diluted liquid soap to the beads with my finger. The first side went on by hand in a flash, followed by most of the second side. I did then resort to a second pair of hands to help me get to within about nine inches of bead remaining, but could proceed no further with my bare hands. Three gentle applications of a single normal plastic bicycle tyre lever then effortlessly popped the last section into place.
A simple track pump was then applied. The first (front) tyre took about 30 seconds with my glamorous assistant pumping and me gently manipulating to get a complete seal, and even less time to get from there to 100psi - per the sidewall, which states "REC. PRESSURE 7.0 BAR (100 PSI) MAX. PRESSURE 8.7 BAR (125 PSI)". The second (rear) tyre went straight up, right from the first stroke on the track pump, without needing any manipulating whatsoever.
Momentarily over-inflating a tyre (within reason) can help to get the best possible mating of beads and rim, but these appear to have gone on very neatly without needing any special persuasion, and the beads and the tread look perfectly concentric when the wheel is spun.
No sealant used - let's see what pressure they are at in 24 hours time.
Monday 5 November 2012
Tubeless valves & outer shifter cable collected
At long last, the tubeless valves arrived at MK Cycles today. Front and rear valves are completely identical, except the rear valve has an additional adapter to match the offset section of the rear rim. Despite the almost microscopic proportions of this simple plastic spacer, the rear valve is a whopping 50% more expensive than the front.
WH-7850-SL-F valve unit, front:
- 6.8g
- £3.99
WH-7850-SL-R valve unit, rear:
- 6.9g
- £5.99
While I was at the shop collecting the valves, I also picked up a length of outer sheath for the shifter cable, plus the necessary ferrules for the outer and a cap for the inner, which altogether set me back £1.50.
I'm now looking forward to finding out how lacking my humble collection of bicycle tools is over the next few days!
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| The rear valve is the one on the right, complete with its adapter, which sits on the outside surface of the rim. There's an O-ring seal under the knurled locking ring, but not under the adapter. |
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| Here's the rear valve in situ, perched on its adapter, overhanging the drive side of the rim. |
- 6.8g
- £3.99
WH-7850-SL-R valve unit, rear:
- 6.9g
- £5.99
While I was at the shop collecting the valves, I also picked up a length of outer sheath for the shifter cable, plus the necessary ferrules for the outer and a cap for the inner, which altogether set me back £1.50.
I'm now looking forward to finding out how lacking my humble collection of bicycle tools is over the next few days!
Saturday 3 November 2012
Chain length - 108 or 110?
A bit of a moment-of-truth today - I borrowed a chain off another 10-speed bike, draped it across the 46 tooth chainring, threaded it through the XTR derailleur, wrapped it around the 11-36 XTR cassette, Powerlocked the ends, and got to see 1x10 in action for the first time. As I've no tyres (the tubeless valves still haven't arrived at the shop) and no shifter cable yet, it was only a quick hand-cranked test spin, but shifting was quick and smooth, even at the extremities, with no audible complaints from anything, even when in 10th - fingers crossed everything looks and sounds just as sweet under load!
The borrowed chain was 110 links. However, according to the time-honoured method of determining the correct length by wrapping the chain around the biggest ring and biggest cog without going through the derailleur, and then adding two links, I should be OK with 108 links.
Here are a couple of photos, first with 110 links, then with 108 links. How might I learn from first trying 110 that it would be better not to proceed to 108? Or should I just get on with it and go straight to 108?
The borrowed chain was 110 links. However, according to the time-honoured method of determining the correct length by wrapping the chain around the biggest ring and biggest cog without going through the derailleur, and then adding two links, I should be OK with 108 links.
Here are a couple of photos, first with 110 links, then with 108 links. How might I learn from first trying 110 that it would be better not to proceed to 108? Or should I just get on with it and go straight to 108?
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| 110 links - too long? |
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| 108 links - too short? |
Friday 2 November 2012
bike24.com order has arrived
Got my hands on the brake levers, chain, and tyre sealant today.
First job is to weigh everything! Next I can determine how many links need to be removed from the chain - and then after it's been shortened, weigh it all over again!
First job is to weigh everything! Next I can determine how many links need to be removed from the chain - and then after it's been shortened, weigh it all over again!
Thursday 1 November 2012
700x23 Hutchinson Fusion 3 tubeless tyres delivered & weighed
Claimed weight: 290g
Actual weights: 305.5g and 317.5g
So that's 623g for the pair, 311.5g average. Well, let's look on the bright side - their weight will decrease as I wear them out! Can't tell you much more than that until the tubeless valves arrive.
Interestingly (not!) it's a similar story with the Camelbak Podium 710ml bottles - the first one weighed 74.3g, the second one (which just arrived, with the tyres) weighs 77.1g - so 151.4g for the pair, 75.7g average.
Actual weights: 305.5g and 317.5g
So that's 623g for the pair, 311.5g average. Well, let's look on the bright side - their weight will decrease as I wear them out! Can't tell you much more than that until the tubeless valves arrive.
Interestingly (not!) it's a similar story with the Camelbak Podium 710ml bottles - the first one weighed 74.3g, the second one (which just arrived, with the tyres) weighs 77.1g - so 151.4g for the pair, 75.7g average.
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