Cables fitted, derailleur & brakes set up

I haven't previously done any bicycle cabling from scratch, but this first attempt has gone almost without a hitch.

The shifter cable came from two sources - the inner came with the shifter, the outer from MK Cycles, a local bike shop. I didn't attempt to cut the outer myself, instead I bought two separate lengths, each slightly longer than I would need (for shifter to downtube adjuster barrel, and chainstay cable stop to derailleur) from the bike shop, offered them up to the bike, marked them for cutting, and then returned them to the shop to be trimmed with their (rather expensive looking) special cutter.

Setting up the derailleur was straight forward, it's working perfectly, and is all set to be fine-tuned on a test ride to get it absolutely spot-on under load.

The brake cables came with the Tiagra levers, which I chose because they are highest group Shimano flat bar levers, and can be used with caliper brakes (they can be set up either for V-brakes, or for caliper or cantilever or roller brakes) and the diagonal cutters on my pliers proved up to the job of neatly pruning them to length.

There was a problem however with the supplied ferrules - they fit perfectly into the adjuster barrels on the levers, and into the cable stops on the frame, but their external diameter is very slightly larger than the internal diameter of the adjuster barrels on the Tiagra calipers. Not sure what's gone wrong there - I assumed that the cables Shimano supplied with BL-4600 Tiagra levers would be compatible with BR-4600 Tiagra calipers! So for now I've left those two ferrules out, and I'll get an opinion (and, I suspect, a couple of different ferrules) from the bike shop next time I'm passing.

No problems adjusting the brakes. I still need to cut the inner cables to length, resolve the ferrule problem, get a shorter mounting bolt for the rear caliper, and I should probably replace the used brake shoes with something that will be as kind as possible to my Ultegra rims, but none of those things is stopping the bike from being ridden.

Sealant-free tubeless tyres - initial pressure check

After 24 hours, pressure is down about 3-4psi. This includes however much is lost as a result of applying the pressure gauge (which probably isn't insignificant, given the low volumes and high pressures involved).

Hutchinson Fusion 3 tubeless tyres fitted

This is the first time I've fitted tubeless bicycle road tyres, and I wasn't quite sure what to expect. My previous experience with bicycle tyres in general (reasonable), tubeless MTB tyres (limited), and tubeless motorcycle and car tyres (considerable is probably an understatement) suggested that fitting these would be a doddle. On the other hand, most reports I've read online, both by Joe Public and supposed press professionals, generally indicated that superhuman strength, heavy duty tyre levers, and a compressor of industrial proportions would be needed.

I popped the tyres in the airing cupboard for half an hour first (warm tyres are that bit more flexible and stretchy) then applied diluted liquid soap to the beads with my finger. The first side went on by hand in a flash, followed by most of the second side. I did then resort to a second pair of hands to help me get to within about nine inches of bead remaining, but could proceed no further with my bare hands. Three gentle applications of a single normal plastic bicycle tyre lever then effortlessly popped the last section into place.

A simple track pump was then applied. The first (front) tyre took about 30 seconds with my glamorous assistant pumping and me gently manipulating to get a complete seal, and even less time to get from there to 100psi - per the sidewall, which states "REC. PRESSURE 7.0 BAR (100 PSI) MAX. PRESSURE 8.7 BAR (125 PSI)". The second (rear) tyre went straight up, right from the first stroke on the track pump, without needing any manipulating whatsoever.

Momentarily over-inflating a tyre (within reason) can help to get the best possible mating of beads and rim, but these appear to have gone on very neatly without needing any special persuasion, and the beads and the tread look perfectly concentric when the wheel is spun.

No sealant used - let's see what pressure they are at in 24 hours time.

Tubeless valves & outer shifter cable collected

At long last, the tubeless valves arrived at MK Cycles today. Front and rear valves are completely identical, except the rear valve has an additional adapter to match the offset section of the rear rim. Despite the almost microscopic proportions of this simple plastic spacer, the rear valve is a whopping 50% more expensive than the front.

The rear valve is the one on the right, complete with its adapter, which sits on the outside surface of the rim. There's an O-ring seal under the knurled locking ring, but not under the adapter.

Here's the rear valve in situ, perched on its adapter, overhanging the drive side of the rim.

WH-7850-SL-F valve unit, front:
 - 6.8g
 - £3.99

WH-7850-SL-R valve unit, rear:
 - 6.9g
 - £5.99

While I was at the shop collecting the valves, I also picked up a length of outer sheath for the shifter cable, plus the necessary ferrules for the outer and a cap for the inner, which altogether set me back £1.50.

I'm now looking forward to finding out how lacking my humble collection of bicycle tools is over the next few days!

Chain length - 108 or 110?

A bit of a moment-of-truth today - I borrowed a chain off another 10-speed bike, draped it across the 46 tooth chainring, threaded it through the XTR derailleur, wrapped it around the 11-36 XTR cassette, Powerlocked the ends, and got to see 1x10 in action for the first time. As I've no tyres (the tubeless valves still haven't arrived at the shop) and no shifter cable yet, it was only a quick hand-cranked test spin, but shifting was quick and smooth, even at the extremities, with no audible complaints from anything, even when in 10th - fingers crossed everything looks and sounds just as sweet under load!

The borrowed chain was 110 links. However, according to the time-honoured method of determining the correct length by wrapping the chain around the biggest ring and biggest cog without going through the derailleur, and then adding two links, I should be OK with 108 links.

Here are a couple of photos, first with 110 links, then with 108 links. How might I learn from first trying 110 that it would be better not to proceed to 108? Or should I just get on with it and go straight to 108?

110 links - too long?

108 links - too short?

bike24.com order has arrived

Got my hands on the brake levers, chain, and tyre sealant today.

First job is to weigh everything! Next I can determine how many links need to be removed from the chain - and then after it's been shortened, weigh it all over again!

700x23 Hutchinson Fusion 3 tubeless tyres delivered & weighed

Claimed weight: 290g

Actual weights: 305.5g and 317.5g

So that's 623g for the pair, 311.5g average. Well, let's look on the bright side - their weight will decrease as I wear them out! Can't tell you much more than that until the tubeless valves arrive.

Interestingly (not!) it's a similar story with the Camelbak Podium 710ml bottles - the first one weighed 74.3g, the second one (which just arrived, with the tyres) weighs 77.1g - so 151.4g for the pair, 75.7g average.